THE PERFECT GUSSET

 

Whether youšve designed your own pattern or you are working from a purchased pattern, I always recommend "checking the fit" of the pattern before you begin working with fabric. 

 

The gusset is probably the part of the pattern where fit is the most critical.  Not only is it the first thing you look at, the face of the bear is the personality and 99% of the time the face is what wins over the bear lover.  If the gusset is crooked, the face will be crooked and customer will look on to the next bear on the table.

 

1.              Cut the side head and gusset out of paper. 

2.             SEE DIAGRAM 1.  Note the width of the seam allowance and mark the seam line on your pattern pieces.  Be sure these seamlines are accurate.  The seamlines are what we will be using to check the patternšs accuracy.  Because we will only be working with stitching lines, and you will need to see the side head stitching line through the gusset paper, either

a.     cut off the seam allowance on the gusset, or

b.     use a fine, black marker to mark the stitching line on the side head so it can be seen through the paper of the gusset piece.

 

DIAGRAM 1

 

3.             SEE DIAGRAM 1.  On the side head, you will be marking 4 points.  (As this method becomes second nature to you, you will need less reference points.) All points are marked on the stitching line.

a.     Mark the point at the tip of the nose where the two stitching lines meet. Point A

b.     Mark the point where the bridge of the nose begins to curve into the top of the head, usually around the eyepoint.   Point B

c.     Mark the center point on the top of the head. Point C

d.     Mark the center back of the neck where the two stitching lines meet.  Point D

4.             SEE DIAGRAM 1.  On the gusset, you will also be marking 4 points on the stitching line. (Mark the edge of the paper if you have cut off the seam allowance in step 2a.)

a.     Mark the tip of the nose at the center front.  Point A

b.     Mark the point where the bridge of the nose begins to curve into the top of the head.  (If your gusset is football shaped (has no curve in at the eye point), you don't need to mark this point now, we will add it later on.) Point B

c.     Mark the point where the gusset is the fattest. Point C

d.     Mark the center back of the neck where the two seam lines meet. Point D

5.             SEE DIAGRAM 2.  "Walking In" along the stitching line.  

a.     Lay the gusset on top of the side head, matching points A. at the tip of the nose. Place your pencil firmly at this point to hold the pattern pieces in place.

DIAGRAM 2

 

b.     SEE DIAGRAM 3.  While holding the pencil at this point and keeping the side head still, rotate gusset slightly upward or downward until the stitching line on the gusset piece meets the stitching line on the side head piece.  (These rotations can be very slight.  The sharper the curve, the smaller the rotation before the edges pass each other.)

 

DIAGRAM 3

c.    At a point just before the stitching lines separate, replace your pencil on the stitching line.

d.     SEE DIAGRAM 4.  Repeat steps 5b. and 5c. until you come to point B.

DIAGRAM 4

                                                     i.     If your gusset is football shaped (has no curve in at the eye point), mark point B onto the gusset at the point it meets point A on the side head and then repeat steps 5b. and 5c. until you come to point C.

                                                       ii.     If point B on the gusset meets point B on the side head, so far, so good.  Continue by repeating steps b. and c. until you come to point C.

                                                         iii.     If point B on the gusset does not meet point B on the side head, either:

1.     if the angles of the curve are sharp, the curves (and Point B) must meet exactly and the pattern must be partially redrawn.

a.     Choose either the gusset or the side head to keep the same.  The curve on the other piece will be re-drawn.  For this example, we will choose to keep the shape of the gusset and change the side head.

b.     Mark Point B from the gusset onto the side head.

c.     Re-draw the side head making the curve at the new point B.

2.    if the curve is gentle, pick one of the points and transfer the point to the other piece (cross out the point that was there) or cross out both points and pick a new one between the two.

                                                        iv.     Continue by repeating steps 5b. and 5c. until you come to point C.

1.     If point C on the gusset meets point C on the side head, so far, so good.  Continue by repeating steps 5b. and 5c. until you come to point D.

2.    If point C on the gusset does not meet point C on the side head:

a.     Transfer Point C from the side head to the gusset and cross out the old one on the gusset.

b.     Re-draw the curve of the gusset so that the fattest point is at the new Point C.

                                                      v.     Continue by repeating steps 5b. and 5c. until you come to point D.

1.     If point D on the gusset meets point D on the side head, your check is complete.

2.    If point D on the gusset does not meet point D on the side head, lengthen or shorten the gusset to meet the end of the side head to complete your check.

6.             Repeat Step 5 to check the accuracy of your new points.  You may need a few minor adjustments.

 

Two things that are critical when designing (or working with pre-made patterns) and sewing are precision and patience.  If matching points are slightly off, it will throw off the whole design.  Most times, no one will notice exactly what it is, but a customer will sense something about the finished product is just not right. 

 

This method of checking pattern pieces for a perfect fit was taught to me by my most favorite teacher Fran Cashman who taught me pattern drafting (for fashion) at West Valley Occupational Center a few years ago.  Do it a few times and it will become second nature to you; your patterns will always fit perfectly together.

 

Foot Pad Bonus Note:  This method of "walking in" on the stitching line also applies to checking the fit of the foot pads, and certain paw pads. 

 

  1. Mark the toe point and the heel point on the stitching line of both the foot pad pattern piece and the leg pattern piece. 
  2. Lay the foot pad on top of the leg piece matching the toe points.
  3. Place your pencil at the toe point and "walk in" as in steps 5b. and 5c. above along the stitching line until you reach the heel points.  Add or subtract as needed.

 

Measuring Method  - Another way of achieving the same results.

  1. Using a curved ruler (see below) or a piece of curved wire, measure the side head from point A to point B along the stitching line.  This measurement must be equal to the distance between point A and point B on the gusset.
    1. If the measurements don't match, lengthen or shorten one of the pieces to equal the correct measurement.
  2. Repeat step 1 measuring from point B to point C.
  3. Repeat step 1 measuring from point C to point D.

 

 

After you are comfortable using these methods, you may only need to use points A and B.  Remember that although this month we are focusing on patience and precision, you still should be having fun!  If not, take a break, have a cookie, go for a walk, watch a sit-com and come back later!